Sunday 6 November 2011

Coco Chanel

Coco Chanel, real name Gabrielle Chanel, is best known for the Chanel suit, the Chanel jacket, bell bottom trousers, and Chanel no.5 perfume.
Although Chanel claimed she was born in 1893 in a place called Auvergne, France, she was actually born in 1883 in Saumur, a town in the west of France. Chanel's mother worked in the poorhouse where Gabrielle was born, and passed away when Gabrielle was just six, leaving her father with five children. He soon abandoned this responsibility and left his children in the hands of his relatives.

From 1905-1908, Gabrielle worked as a cafe and concert singer, and gave herself the stage name Coco. But this did not last long. Soon after she became a mistress to a wealthy military officer, and then to an English industrialist, but she used the wealthiness of these men to her advantage. Pulling on the resources of these patrons, she used the funds to set up a millinery shop in Paris in 1910, soon expanding to open shops in Deauville and Biarritz. Not only did she initially rely on funds from these men, but she also knew that another thing they could supply was customers. They helped her source the wealthier women of society to buy her products, and the simple design of her hats became extremely popular.

Chanel's millinery success grew and grew and soon 'Coco' was a couture brand, making clothing as well as famous trademark hats. Gabrielle's clothing was made from jersey for comfort and style, a first in French fashion. By the 1920's Chanel's brand has expanded considerably, and had a definite impact on the fashion world with its 'little boy' look. Gabrielle's mid length skirt and casual look was a sharp contrast to the current tailored, corseted trends of the previous decades. Chanel did indeed dress in mannish clothing herself, and the liberation she felt was to be passed on to other women who wore her clothing.

By 1922 Chanel's clothing was selling so well she introduced her first perfume, Chanel No.5, which became and remains an incredibly popular and profitable product worldwide. Pierre Wertheimer became her partner in the perfume business in 1924, and rumoured also to be her lover. Wertheimer owned 70% of the company; Chanel received 10% and her friend Bader 20%. The Wertheimers remain the owners of the perfume company today.

Chanel contined to introduce new timeless pieces, such as the cardigan jacket in 1925, along with the signature 'little black dress'. Her fashion's were, as previously mentioned, timeless. Gabrielle briefly served as a nurse in World War II. Nazi occupation meant the fashion business in Paris was cut off for some years; Chanel's affair during World War II with a Nazi officer also resulted in some years of diminished popularity and an exile of sorts to Switzerland. In 1954 her comeback re-established her into to the first ranks of haute couture. Her casual clothing including the Chanel suit caught the eye, and purses, of women once again. She also introduced pea jackets and bell bottom trousers for many admiring women.




Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel was still working in 1971 when she died, then eighty-seven years old. She was tired and ailing but continued to adhere to her usual schedule, overseeing the preparation of the spring collection. She died on Sunday 10 January, at the Hotel Ritz where she had lived for more than thirty years. She had gone for a long drive that day and, not feeling well, had retired early to bed. Karl Lagerfeld carries on her legacy and has been chief designer of Chanel's fashion house since 1983.

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