Sunday 27 November 2011

How World War 2 influenced fashion

The crisis of World War 2 proved to have an immense impact on fashion in all the countries involved. The German invasion of Poland in September 1939 impacted everything that happened in the fashion industry and everyone involved, over the next decade. Fashion follows the world economic state and its social trends, so, undoubtedly, World War II demanded changes in the way every man, woman, and child knew clothing styles and fashion design.
By December 1941, Germany had invaded Norway, Denmark, Holland, Belgium, France, Yugoslavia, and Greece, and the level of this crisis naturally forced haute couture to step out of the limelight and take a back seat to focus on helping the rising panic caused by the global conflict. The war had successfully affected everything in every way, and even countries that were not directly involved in the conflict felt an impact.
Women everywhere had to make an effort to get by with much less than they would ordinarily be accustomed to.  Due to the war causing a severe financial pinch, fabric was rationed. A cheaper synthetic fabric called Rayon was developed, as other popular cheap fabrics were being used for other purposes. Nylon and Wool were needed by the military, so Rayon certified a handy replacement and most women’s clothing was produced from this.
In June 1941, it was the UK’s turn to face Germany. Nazis had invaded the island and the fair distribution of fabric forced a coupon system to be put in place. Adults in Britain received 66 clothing coupons per year, which eventually was reduced to 36 coupons by 1945 due to the strong decrease in funds. Prices were high, yet supplies were limited. A strong majority of government forces enforced restrictions on the use of fabrics and other materials to make clothing as most of the supplies were needed for military purposes.
London’s Harvey Nicols noticed a gap in the market when a rising fear of a gas attack in the city developed. The fashionable store started selling gas protection suits made from pure oiled silk in a variety of colours. Ordinary warm and comfortable Utility Jumpsuits were already popular amongst the wartime women, so a fashionable alternative along with pockets for paper and valuables was hugely welcomed.
Before the war Paris had a huge impact on fashion. However, it was soon to lose its leadership as functioning couture houses were frowned upon during the war, as they were thought unnecessary and greedy. Yet Paris continued to offer excessive use of fabrics such as draping, pocket flaps, non-functional buttons and cuffs. Immensely popular designers such as Coco Chanel were forced to shut their houses down, so it seemed couture fashion was going into hiding. Coco Chanel especially was criticised for her relationship with a high ranking Nazi official, so the public’s opinions of popular designers began to get in the way of the fashions ‘importance’.
US women used the military look for inspiration, and as the US had all contact cut with Paris, they were forced to come up with their own entirely new style. The silhouette, inspired by the army’s uniform, demonstrated broad, often padded shoulders, and narrow hips. What with the fall of Paris’ fashion rank, the industry moved to New York. Drab and patriotic colours such as air force blue, black, browns and grey flannel were used so as not to spend more than necessary on fabric production. Again, Rayon was used, as it did not shrink or crease and enabled production in either light or heavyweight form. Wool was used for soldier’s blankets so fabric designers also began to come up with wool and rayon blends.



The restrictions on purchasing fabric meant skirt hemlines rose. An order named the L-85 Order was put in place which specified the amount of fabric the amount of fabric allowed and also restricted the number of pleats and trimmings, along with jacket and trouser lengths. Fastenings had to be 100% necessary, as the metal used for zippers was in use by the military and buttons were scarce. No fastenings there for ornamentation were allowed. Recycling, and home-making clothing became the only way for wartime women to survive. Short and boxy meant was the style of the times, not because of trend, but out of necessity.

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